Comments on: On Indian Wines

By: Magan

Magan — Thu, 18 Sep 2008 16:24:40 +0000

Hello Professor,
There are two issues here and I will address both separately. The first is regarding the use of screw caps vs. corks and I am not opposed to such closure. They are great for young quaffing wines reducing the instance of cork-related problems. Sula’s use of cork is, in that sense, laudable.
Issue #2, why don’t the screw caps come off easily: I would suspect this to be a quality-related issue. But not just Sula, I have come across this problem in many wines from around the worltd – Southern Italian, Argentinean, Chilean. Ironically, Australia which uses a lot of screw cap seems to have managed to work their way around this problem. I do agree it is most frustrating to have a bottle of wine and not be able to open it. Think of it as a hidden messsage, the wine doesn’t want to be drunk yet: wait…
Either that, or else, get another wine!
just,
Magan.

By: DP Agrawal

DP Agrawal — Sun, 14 Sep 2008 04:42:48 +0000

Dear Mr Singh,
I had the privilege of corresponding with you a few days back.

I would like to invite your attention to the recent practice of Sola Wine Company of substituting wooden corks with metallic caps which require a regular pipe wrench to open! It might even lead to breaking the bottle itself. I do not understand this sort of foolish economy with the part of our wineries. I wrote to them but there was no reply. May be they will listen to your more powerful voice.

Thanks
Dp

By: Magan

Magan — Wed, 10 Sep 2008 06:43:44 +0000

Dear Observer,
thanks for your, err, observations…wish you had shared your identity with us although i guarantee Z-level security to none!
Thanks again.
just,
Magan.

By: Observer

Observer — Tue, 09 Sep 2008 10:51:11 +0000

IMHO, Indian wines aren’t completely hopeless, but they are very very average. Right now most are like very bad quaffing wines in other countries (2 buck chuck). With much work on chemistry and argi studies, most will come to meet the international standard in quaffing wines. The way things are going right now, very few however will be considered to be drunk alongside mid-range international wines. Possibly none have the opportunity to become great wines.

The reason as Magan points out is that to have really good mid-range to great wines requires low yield rates (anti-efficiency) and a passion for wine – which in real terms means not selling a vintage and admitting that the the vineyard next door’s wine is better this year. An impossibility in the Indian wine industry and possibly becoming more so in more parts of the world (see the movie Mondevino).

Most wine lovers, including many on this forum are wine loves or sommeliers or in the industry because had the opportunity to taste great wine. Remember that wine (or two) that may you think “wow, i’m in love!”? Can we get these in India for a reasonable price? Can we access different wines so as we may fairly compare variety around the world or understand better? How many people in India can have that? How many people will become wine lovers?

If Indian wine is so good Rajeev, why are you trying to protect the Indian wine industry? Let imported wine (especially the great stuff) flow in. Let people taste and let them tell you what they think about the imported stuff and your stuff. What are you afraid of? That a bottle of wine like Hardy’s that sells in Australia for < $10 will outdo your wine which sells at <$10 (not even withstanding the differentiation in indexed current/living measures)? Maybe they will even learn to like wine and drink your stuff more… maybe. But it’s a ploy that against all thinking in India.

India is becoming an economic power, beating people in many industries by smarts and pure hard work. But, wine is an art, it is not a method, it is a crime of passion.

By: Magan

Magan — Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:20:05 +0000

Thank you Reva,
That was well-put, not to mention brave.
I do not intend to gain notoriety by digging up dirt, that is the most short-lived approach there ever was. I write from the heart and that is the best way to be happy – to think, say and do the same thing at one time.
My previous piece for you too kicked up much controversy without much reason. As you can see it didn’t change me a bit. If another equally heated topic comes to mind, will surley keep you posted.
thank you.
just,
Magan.

By: Reva K Singh

Reva K Singh — Thu, 28 Aug 2008 07:14:21 +0000

I’m like a sponge who listens and absorbs what everyone has to say. Most often I like to keep my own counsel, and so, didn’t plan to jump into the fray after reading the first couple of reactions to Magan’s diatribe against Indian wines. Here’s what I think.
Since starting Sommelier India I’ve learned more about wines and have drunk and tasted more wine than I can say, but I am not a wine taster, and wouldn’t presume to be a wine judge. As an informed wine drinker and wine lover, however, what I do know is that, apart from good wine and bad wine, all wine should be without ‘faults’ or flaws and this is where our wines show up most poorly. What is the wine industry going to do about this? How long will the unsuspecting Indian consumer be fobbed off with poor quality wine?
Before Indian wines can make their mark, they need to be consistent and ‘faultless’. With so many new wines appearing on the market maybe some thought should be given to standardisation – in the vineyard and the winery, not forgetting storage and transportation.
An honest and forthright expression of views is always welcome, Magan, and a writer with a definite point of view is an editor’s dream. But if you allow your expression to run away with you, you risk losing credibility.
Do you remember the article you wrote on the Indian wine industry for Sommelier India in its early days? Perhaps it’s time to do another one!
In the meanwhile, we have two articles on wine in India in the next issue of Sommelier India by Robert Joseph and Stefan Gerber that touch on some of the issues facing the industry today.
All the best,
Reva

By: Magan

Magan — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 19:40:12 +0000

Equating wine and cricket…aha! now I expect thousands to come and post here with much vehemence and relevance…you said it Robert.

I will visit Nasik at some point again, thank you for your offer Rajeev, and I assure all that I will come with an open mind and a ready palate!

Thank you…

just,
Magan.

By: Robert Joseph

Robert Joseph — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 14:41:27 +0000

Having been an early participant in this thread, may I say how happy I am to see the level of – much-needed – debate Magan has sparked. But I’d also like to respond to a point that several people have made: that the Indian wine industry time should be given time to develop (after all – just look at how long it took France…). My only response to this is that France is not – and should not be – the model for India. Instead, Indian aspirations should be more based on New Zealand. In 1980, New Zealand produced almost no white wine of any quality. By 1990, it was acknowledged to be leading the world with Sauvignon Blanc. Today, it is doing similarly well with Pinot Noir Treat the wine world the way you treat the cricket world: play to win now!. The Aussies, Zealanders and South Africans who (with the non cricket-playing north and south Americans) increasingly dominate the wine world, aren’t thinking about winning tests in 2012.
As Rajeev knows (and thanks in part to his generous help in organising the trip) I’m going to be in Nasik in a few weeks with the overseas India Wine Challenge judges to see and taste what’s going on. Maybe Magan, you can join us on that trip…)

By: Rajeev Samant

Rajeev Samant — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 07:04:20 +0000

I think it’s time you made a trip to Nasik. You have no idea what’s going on in our vineyards my friend…. come on over and let us show you…maybe you won’t be converted but i have a feeling you will soften your stance…

Take this as an open invitation. The Nasik Wine Association will be happy to host your fact-finding tour…

By: Magan

Magan — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 06:09:33 +0000

Dear Vijay,
Indian wines are good but not for INR450 rupees, perhaps at INR150 at best. In a blind tasting against wines from similar price ranges (USD10), there is no comparison and we are way amateur-ish. This is not me but exercises conducted with some of the best palates of the world.
Sure we are young as a winemaking country but surely the technology is available to us as also the expertise. (Most of the companies you mentioned use winemakers from abroad by the way and yet don’t seem to be able to get it all right.) We don’t have to start all over from zero when a lot of ground has already been covered and established by the “more experienced” Western vintners. No?
just,
Magan.

By: vijay Kutty

vijay Kutty — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 05:34:51 +0000

Dear Magan,
Indians are the new world wine makers compare to france,spain,italy and switzerland, who are into wine making for centuries.We should give some more time to our wine makers so that they will come out with more good wines like La reserve,revelo and sula which are as good as your imported wines.And all this wines are made by INDIAN wine makers!!!
.

By: Magan

Magan — Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:18:12 +0000

Hey Rifaquat,
Thanks for infusing your inimitable brand into this rather serious run where it is much needed and truly appreciated.
My concern is not limted to a little extra SO2, i am talking about the downright unsippable and we have enough that even a sizeable bomb couldn’t wipe out. Grapes sell by the kilo in Nashik. not by quality. We have gotten somewhere i do not deny but quality for most is still a dot on the horizon.
Sure it is good to observe another model but to learn from it; must we reinvent the wheel by repeating their mistakes? Why can’t we allow ourselves a little more intelligence?

…and i way prefer an allusion to the Bee Gees than Boyzone…yes, i am a puritan too…but thanks anyways.

just,
Magan.

By: Rifaquat Mirza

Rifaquat Mirza — Mon, 25 Aug 2008 13:52:24 +0000

Magan bhaisaab…!! Inspite of your rather arcadian boyzonish plea of “..words are all I have ” I think you have put the cat among the pigeons or rather run amuck like a haryanvi saand in the neighbourhood ‘Ajanta Fancy Gift Store’.

Well that would be the first gut feel reaction looking at the serious thoughts being exchanged but honestly apart from your voicing concern about what is an oft discussed issue in Indian Wine circles I personally feel its a tad harsh. Even if you speak from a position of knowledge and understanding I would have loved it if you were to use a shot gun approach to the attack rather than a blanket bombing barrage. Helps to get the point across.

Well yes I have heard of the hydrogen sulphide and SO2 level problems with some of our wines ( and yes these are OUR wines ) and of course we all know about the absence of any credible ( or rather “certified” ) quality checks but I am sanguine its a matter of time.

And a constitution which states “the State shall endeavour to bring about prohibition of the consumption – except for medicinal purposes – of intoxicating drinks” is never going to propogate “hum do hamare do aur sab piyo…”

It would be nice to observe the Chinese ( what next ? am sure we will have Jalebis being imported from Guandong !) model and its progress as suggested by Robert. Perhaps there might be some great learning. We have always been colonial in our mindset about the good life and so you will almost always fine our wine makers / traders to be a la the borxeaux puritans ( including yours truly…and why not ). Until and unless we see the launch of Reliance-wine next year.

It was a great read and honeslty I have always believed that when the comments get longer than the main article you have got it right ( at least as a writer ) ……….and yes there were some very interesting insights from everyone else too.

By: Magan

Magan — Sat, 23 Aug 2008 13:03:24 +0000

Thank you Alok.
The responses are getting more focused and precise and with your experience to back it up, wineries should listen to you at least, even if they take personal offence to me.
It is pretty clear that the industry has a long way to go and there are many an optimist waiting for it to happen. As for me, anytime between now and Apocalypse would be fine, sooner the better.
just,
Magan.

By: Alok Chandra

Alok Chandra — Sat, 23 Aug 2008 12:54:38 +0000

Good to see some spirited debate on the subject – it would have been worse if nobody had responded!

Yes, I think that most Indian wines have a long way to go, but no, I do not think they are all merely plonk. Yes, we’re making some decent Sauvignon Blanc (Sula) and Cabernet Sauvignon (Reveilo), but unfortunately few of the Indian wines can outlast the ‘heat & dust’ and generally need to be consumed ASAP. Grover’s La Reserve used to be better than it is today (the Decanter rating was for the 2004 wine) and may perhaps share a penchant for blending with imports, on the likes of Tiger Hill.

Regarding making money: the old joke about “How do you make a small fortune in wine? Ans: Start with a large fortune” very much applies in India – certainly, even the Big Three (Indage, Grover & Sula) started showing a positive bottom line only fairly recently, and anyone starting off now would take at least 5 – 7 years just to break even (if they’re luckty, and do everything right).

I entirely agree that the wine industry here is highly protected, but also think that a reasonable level of tariffs will enable local wines to become more competitive over time. What is killing are the state-level imposts that seek to protect each state’s wines: witness the riduclously high taxes in Maharashtra, which are now sought to be emulated in Karnataka, with the virus spreading to Goa – this is the sort of thinking that gave us 50 years of the Ambassador car.

Seven years back there were just three winemakers in India – today there are at least 10 of note, and over the next 7 years this number will double, if not triple – provided the market expands sufficiently to interest investors.

And of course trying to pair wine with Indian food is difficult – as I’ve said before, what probably goes best with our spicy curries is cold beer!

Cin Cin, everybody
Alok Chandra
Bangalore